PALOMA PICASSO (MON PARFUM) + TENTATIONS - PALOMA PICASSO
🕊️ Paloma Picasso – Mon Parfum (1984) 💧 Concentration: Eau de Parfum 🌿 Olfactive Family: Chypre Floral 👃 Perfumer: Francis Bocris 📂 Source: Gilbert Bendoni Private Collection 📦 Number of Ingredients: 47
💨 Creative Context
Launched in 1984, Mon Parfum by Paloma Picasso is a statement scent — bold, baroque, and unapologetically chypre. Created by Francis Bocris, a perfumer trained in Grasse and known for his work at Créations Aromatiques, this fragrance was designed to reflect Paloma Picasso’s signature style: black, red, and gold, with a touch of theatrical elegance.
It’s not a perfume that follows trends — it defines them. With its rich floral heart, animalic shadows, and mossy base, Mon Parfum is a scent for women who wear fragrance like armor.
🧪 The Architecture
Chypre base: Patchouli Oil, Oakmoss, Labdanum Resinoid, Vertofix, Cedryl Acetate. Floral heart: Rose Absolute, Rose Oil Bulgarian Type, Centifolyl, Jasmin Absolute, Ylang Extra, Lilial, Rosacetol. Spicy–green lift: Cardamom Oil, Coriander Oil, Lemon Oil, Bergamot Oil, Hydroxycitronellal, Geraniol, Geranyl Acetate. Animalic depth: Civet Firmenich, Castoreum Resinoid, Costus Oliffac, Animalys Synarome, Ambrinol. Powdered nuance: Lyral, Vanillin, Coumarin, Muguet Aldehyde, Decalactone Gamma. Aldehydic shimmer: C11 Aldehyde, Phenylacetic Aldehyde, Jasmonal H. Musky warmth: Exaltolide, Galaxolide, Ambroxan, Iso E Super, Bacdanol. Floral–ozonic accents: Hedione, Phenylethyl Alcohol, Linalool, Miel Blanc Symrise, Davana Oil, Galbex.
🌫️ The Signature
Paloma Picasso doesn’t whisper — it commands. A scent of velvet florals, mossy shadows, and animalic tension. It opens with citrus and aldehydes, blooms into a spicy floral heart, and settles into a chypre base that’s both sensual and sculptural. It’s the olfactory equivalent of a red-lipped woman in a black dress — timeless, magnetic, and unforgettable.
🪞 Cultural Echo
Often compared to Knowing, Diva, and Gem, Mon Parfum is a pillar of 1980s perfumery — bold, structured, and emotionally resonant. Its flacon, designed in black and red, mirrors Paloma’s aesthetic and her legacy as a designer, artist, and daughter of Pablo Picasso.
🖤 Chypre floral with animalic tension 👃 Francis Bocris’ sculptural signature 💄 Paloma’s olfactory self-portrait 🪞 A scent of velvet, spice, and power
🕊️ Tentations – Paloma Picasso (1996) 💧 Concentration: Eau de Parfum 🌺 Olfactive Family: Oriental Floral 👃 Perfumers: Max Gavarry & Sophia Grojsman 📂 Source: Gilbert Bendoni Private Collection 📦 Number of Ingredients: 50
💨 Creative Context
Launched in the mid-90s, Tentations is a rare gem — a sensual, abstract floral–oriental composed by Sophia Grojsman, the architect of Trésor, Paris, and Beautiful, alongside Max Gavarry, known for Anaïs Anaïs. This fragrance is a study in Grojsman’s signature accord: musky florals with radiant aldehydes and velvety woods, built on a minimalist yet emotionally rich structure.
It’s not just a perfume — it’s a Grojsman sketch in motion, where the base glows from the top, and the florals are faceted like silk petals.
🧪 The Architecture
Grojsman Accord Core: Galaxolide, Iso E Super, Hedione, Lilial, Bacdanol, Hydroxycitronnellal. Floral–aldehydic shimmer: Gamma Methylionone, C14 & C18 Aldehydes, Methyl Anthranilate, Styrallyl Acetate, Canthoxal. Spiced lift: Cinnamon Oil, Clove Oil, Exaltex, Isoeugenol. Fruity–ozonic accents: Lime Oil, Fructone, Mandarine Oil, Benzoic Aldehyde, Kohinool. Floral heart: Ylang Extra, Geranium Egypt Oil, Cis-3-Hexenyl Salicylate, Phenylethyl Acetate. Woody–musky base: Sandalwood Oil, Sandalore, Cedryl Acetate, Vetyveryl Acetate, Ambroxan, Musc T, Evernyl. Powdered depth: Vanillin, Ethylvanillin, Coumarin, DMBC Acetate, Benzyl Salicylate. Fixatives & nuance: Trimofix O, Ethyl Acetyl Acetate, Benzophenone, Indole, Benzyl Propionate.
🌫️ The Signature
Tentations doesn’t unfold — it radiates. A scent of musky florals suspended in aldehydic light, with a creamy–spiced undertone and a soft woody glow. It’s Grojsman’s style at its most textural and abstract — a perfume that feels like skin warmed by memory, with a whisper of temptation.
🪞 Cultural Echo
Rare and often overlooked, Tentations is a Grojsman collector’s piece — a bridge between her 80s romanticism and 90s minimalism. It shares DNA with Trésor, Paris, and Bvlgari Pour Femme, but adds a spiced oriental twist that makes it unique.
🌺 Grojsman accord in full bloom 👃 Gavarry’s spice meets Grojsman’s glow 🖤 A scent of temptation, texture, and quiet magnetism 🪞 A floral–oriental sketch with musky depth and aldehydic lift